Book Notes: Elin McCoy – The Emperor of Wine (2005)

TitleThe Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr., and the Reign of American Taste
AuthorElin McCoy
PublisherEcco Press (HarperCollins)
Date2005
ISBN978-0060093686 (Hardcover)
Pages342
ExcerptsGoogle Books
SynopsisThis is the story of how an American lawyer raised on Coca-Cola caused a revolution in the way wines around the globe are made, sold, and talked about.
Awardwww.harpercollins.com/products/the-emperor-of-wine-elin-mccoy

About the Author

Elin McCoy started writing about wine in 1981 for Food & Wine magazine together with her husband, John Frederick Walker, with whom she also co-authored her first book Thinking About Wine (1989). As contributing editor, McCoy edited the early work of Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson (and many others); wine writing was still very much a novelty at the time. In 2000, she started writing columns about wine and spirits for Bloomberg, Decanter, and other publications. She also serves as a wine judge and event speaker.

For an entertaining interview

Elin McCoy can still be heard on The Wine Conversation podcast (see below).

3 Amazing Wines for Under $50 – Bloomberg Originals, 2015

About the Book

The book covers the years from 1947 until 2004, when the influence of Parker was at its summit.

Chapters

  • An American palate in formation
  • The wine boom and the other Bobs
  • Wine crusader
  • The 1982 Bordeaux
  • Tasting 10,000 wines a year
  • Perils of the tasting route
  • The emperor’s progress
  • Making wines to please Parker
  • Scoring Parker

Five years after the publication, McCoy posted an “epilogue” article.

Photo by Christopher Barker – The Atlantic Monthly; December 2000; The Million-Dollar Nose

Book Reviews

The book has been widely reviewed. For a sampling (and quotes), see

A selection:

McCoy clearly likes Parker. But she can’t avoid painting a picture of an irascible, arrogant, ill-mannered man. It’s something of a mystery why someone so abrasive enjoys such awesome power.

McCoy, a 30-year veteran wine writer, brings a longtime friendship with Parker to bear on her insider’s view of his life. She gave Parker his first national magazine assignment as an editor at Food & Wine magazine and has had dinner at his home, and while researching this book, she was invited to join him as he tasted a recent vintage of some of the California wines he helped popularize. Far from being a disinterested observer, she has included first-person accounts of herself as a participant in some of the scenes she describes.

Relying on an exhaustive list of magazine, newspaper, book and online sources that runs 13 pages in the book, plus 200 hours of taped interviews with people who know Parker and 35 taped hours with him, McCoy presents both sides of the arguments about whether Parker is too powerful, that he is a star- maker and brand-breaker, that his 100-point scoring system is flawed, that his ethics are compromised, that his predilection for ultraripe, high-alcohol wines is unfair to those making wines of elegance and subtlety.

Robert Parker, the American Bacchus – Financial Times 2012

About Robert Parker

According to the Oxford Companion to Wine

Parker, Robert M., Jr (1947-), extremely influential American wine critic whose most obvious contribution (…) has been the concept of applying numbers to wine. His scores, followed slavishly by some collectors and even more by investors, had a demonstrable effect on individual wine prices, especially in the 1990s and the early years of the 21st century.

In his own words

Bio on the robertparker.com website

With his stubborn disregard for the hierarchy of wines, Robert Parker, the straight-talking American wine critic, is revolutionizing the industry — and teaching the French wine establishment some lessons it would rather not learn.

Robert Parker interviewed in Mondovino (2004)
2020 Maryland International Business Leadership Awards – Robert Parker
Robert Parker Coravin Demonstration Part 1, 2013

Parker retired at the age of 71 (2019).

The Robert Parker Wine Advocate is now owned by the Guide Michelin.

No one individual before or since has changed the world of wine as dramatically, or as beneficially, as Robert M. Parker Jr.

Parkerization

With great power comes great responsability.

Early Trailer for Escaping Robert Parker, Director’s Cut, 2012 – Elin McCoy at 1:45
The power of Parker – Berry Bros and Rudd, 2019

About the Wine Conversation

The Wine Conversation was founded in 2020 by Sarah Kemp, it is

a podsite, as it’s a hybrid, a home to podcast interviews and a website for great articles and recommendations – plus all the information you might not have had time to scribble down while listening.


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